King's Day 2014

After three generations in The Netherlands, we now have had a King’s Day rather than the accustomed and very popular Queen’s Day that ended when Beatrix abdicated her throne last year. We still have a queen, however – the fascinating Maxima, so we are not exactly bereft. And though I had not originally expected it, Beatrix proved to be an excellent monarch – well earning the adoration that she has from her people.

I have come to realise that each of these annual celebrations of the country, nominally in honour of its sovereign, is different. The one in 2006 was an absolute peak. They have been more subdued since – as was this year’s on the 26th of April. But it is still an expression of a national pride that is deserved and not imperialistic. This country works – and it is liberal! For the flavour of the Dutch and their democratic achievement, I can only recommend Russell Shorto’s most entertaining book on *Amsterdam: The Most Liberal City in the World*.

The day starts out as one huge flea market with half of us peddling acquired items that we no longer wish to have cluttering up our spaces, and the other half of us prowling about to see if we can find something useful or at least wanted. Gradually, as the day progresses – and especially if the weather gods are favourable as they were this year, the party begins. In this blessed land of space cakes and coffeeshops, the mellow crowds strung out as orange banners along the canals and over the bridges still evoke something from a Bruegel painting. Beer and music of every kind are available at virtually every corner. And the collective joy is the ultimate thrill of it all.

Spinoza and tulips, pea soup and engineering marvels, Rembrandt, Vermeer and the Concertgebouw, Van Gogh and freedom: these and more are The Netherlands – virtually a synonym for the otherworld itself. And enchantment is to be purchased in the shop next door. Such easy access to the forbidden fruit carries its own responsibilities, of course, but the portals to other consciousnesses – though the wilds of nature are largely absent in this land that has been drawn out of the sea – find here a magical and liminal home. It truly is an oasis within a barren stretch of political ineptitude and global sadness. I thank the gods for the Dutch. Yes, they have their flaws as we all do, but they are still at the forefront of a world as it could and perhaps should be.