24 December 2005
Our Midwinter's Yule
Once the email was checked and the morning chores completed for the winter solstice day, we walked over to the Magere Brug (the Skinny Bridge) that spans the Amstel River three blocks from the house to begin our ritual festivities. The light drizzle only made the city all the more enchanting as people scurried through it to take care of their own preparations. But before we had set off for the bridge, I noticed a swan in the canal before the house. We fetched some bread. Our little black 'bully bird' was suddenly there too, and though we do not like him much, I felt sorry and threw him a few tidbits as well. The swan, however, stately and magnificent, would reach up toward the bank and open his beak as wide as possible – allowing me to place some bread directly into it. At first this was scary, but in time I realized he was not going to bite me.
We were returned to the house from the bridge and spent an hour or two listening to music and enjoying the overall beauty. From the front windows, we watched the swan bid us farewell and glide serenely out of sight.
Then it was time to go over to Freddy's Bar in the magnificent Hotel de l'Europe, one of Amsterdam's best kept secrets. The bar is one of the loveliest plekjes in the whole city. The bartenders agreed and were pleased when I mentioned that to them. We feasted on Irish coffees, reminisces of the year and times past, and appreciations of how fortunate we are on so many fronts.
From Freddy's we crossed the river for the Rokkerij or what we refer to as 'The Temple'. This is our encounter with youth culture par excellence. Renewed and re-inspired, from there we walked to the Dam – the ancient and original centre of Amsterdam, where in fact, the Amstel was first dammed and the city begun. A huge evergreen tree sits at present in the round hole that we take as the lapis manalis or central point of Amsterdam – surrounded by a kermis with amusement park rides and stands selling hot apple beignets, oliebolen and the like. If the swan is the vehicle of Jupiter, we now had darshan of Mars as two mounted police rode past on their splendid steeds.
We wandered then back along the river – passing the Magere Brug where we had started and on to a lovely café overlooking the Amstel from the corner of the Sarphati Straat for a third and final Irish coffee. From there, it was back to home for a fire in the fireplace, some exquisite music over the radio, refreshments and indulgences and that warm, glowing feeling of having spent a day appropriately and in honour of the abundant blessings with which we are surrounded. Somewhere behind the winter gloom yet sparkling radiance, invisibly the sun was quietly reborn.
For the Larentalia, the 23rd of December and last day of the Roman yule, we did much the same but visited several old, old friends throughout the day – starting with breakfast at the American Hotel (almost too early to eat) and visiting the Back Stage café late afternoon as well as exploring some of our other favourite sections of the town. On this day, the Romans held funeral rites for the goddess Larentia as the sun is reborn. It has been a perfect yule for us, and my wishes for the same for you.
Michael
PS: And now for another question and answer for my ethics book. No names will be mentioned, but do you feel recreational drugs should be legal or not and how would you argue your position? Any feedback on this will be helpful. Thanks.